THE word 'picotin' may be French for 'peck' - a measure of grain used for feeding horses - but you can expect much more than stable cuisine at the Saint Pierre group's latest venture at the old Turf Club.
Picotin is the group's first family-friendly eatery - its alfresco area will boast a small kiddie playground next year once the restaurant-cum-deli operations are more settled. But for now, it's a kind of sports-bar/pizzeria/French bistro with horsey overtones.
The casually chic restaurant is the first outlet to open in Horse City, a cluster of lifestyle outlets very close to Turf City that will house a spa, fitness centre, riding school and a pet hotel once all the ongoing construction is completed. Right now, it doesn't look like much, with Picotin offering the only sign of life amid all the unfinished structures. But its away-from-it-all ambience and surrounding greenery make this place full of potential.
It's a joint venture with Sebastien Reuiller, who used to run his eponymous bistro in Greenwood as part of the Les Amis group. That no doubt accounts for the familiar bistro dishes like beef bourguignon, duck confit and escargots. But with chef Emmanuel Stroobant's input, the menu has wider international appeal with a large pizza selection, as well as some pastas.
Depending on your affinity with Singapore's weather, you'll find yourself veering towards the outdoor covered dining area fitted with patio-like wooden furniture, the bright alfresco (read unprotected from the elements) section that faces the prospective neighbours, or the airconditioned indoor area that is divided into a bar counter (with TV) and a smallish dining area furnished with tall tables and high chairs.
Just be warned that the high tables and chairs are more suitable for a quick drink and pizza rather than a full three-course meal.
As the restaurant has only been open for less than a week, the food quality is a little inconsistent. But one thing you can be sure about is the pizza - if you thought only Italians could make good pizza, you probably never had a Belgian chef try his hand at it. The pizzas (starting at $19 for a nine inch) have a paper thin crust with super crispy edges but an almost naan-like texture in the middle that holds its shape and gives you that yummy, chewy, yielding texture that is so hard to get with such a thin crust. Most paper thin pizzas are crispy and almost cracker like throughout, but Picotin's version somehow gives you a thin crust with a thick crust bite. We tried the palomino version which had artichokes, olives, mushrooms and tomatoes, but you can have whatever you want from tandoori chicken to bacon and eggs.
The rest of the menu is decent enough, if fairly predictable. The lobster bisque ($16) had good flavour with generous chunks of lobster and buttery croutons. The duck leg confit ($29) could have had a crispier skin but it was text-book tender and served with a generous salad and delicious lyonnaise potatoes. If there's one thing the French and Belgians know about, it's potatoes and Picotin might as well be potato heaven because every potato interpretation was delicious. Crunchy fat cut fries, rich mashed potatoes and dauphinois gratin, you name it, it was all starchy goodness.
Desserts still need fine-tuning. We only sampled one, the tarte tartine which was cold and soggy and very much un-tartine-like. But the last we heard was that San Marco's manager and pastry expert Roxan Villareal was going to overhaul its desserts so we look forward to the outcome.
Perhaps the beauty of being part of a group is that a new outlet can always look to its older siblings for help, much like a foal is nurtured by its experienced parents. With Picotin in good hands, one can expect a polished product pretty soon.
Picotin
100 Turf Club Road
Tel: 6877-1191
Rating: 7/10
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